July 23 — day 83
Stayed off-trail mile 1016.9 at Kennedy Meadows North Resort hiked 6.7 miles today.
I left my campsite under the Krumholtz white pine under threatening clouds and still plenty of wind. This is one of my favorite sections of the trail walking along the barren ridges before steeply descending via some long glissades to Sonora Pass. It was quiet with hardly any traffic. It was a while before I got a ride to Kennedy Meadows North Resort with a couple who were trying to rearrange a pack trip and were inquiring about the snow conditions higher up. The Resort is mainly a pack station so there are lots of horses, cowboys and cowgirls. At least they don’t smell as bad as the thruhikers. I got myself and my laundry clean, and shipped out my bear canister, microspikes, ice axe etc. I’m now back to a 10 pound base weight pack.
July 22 — day 82
Camped mile 1010.2 hiked 17.7 miles today.
It was another hard day with lots of mosquitos and mud. It was a hard beautiful climb up towards the main ridge heading North. I had a fantastic campsite nestled into a grove of krumholtzed White Pine (where the weather shapes the trees like bonsai – the full-grown trees are no more than 10 feet tall).
July 21 — day 81
Camped mile 992.5 hiked 12.6 miles today.
It was a true mosquito fest today. I didn’t make many miles but each one at the cost of blood. I camped near Falls Creek and the adjacent meadows which was beautiful but apparently prime mosquito habitat.
July 20 — day 80
Camped mile 979.9 hiked 14.1 miles today.
I was a bit lazy today. I was able to skinny dip in Smedberg Lake without a being eaten by mosquitos by finding a little granite peninsula that stuck out into the lake. It felt wonderful to swim and sunbathe mosquito-free. I camped along Ranchita Creek just after crossing it but before the trail climbed out of the valley.
July 19 — day 79
Camped mile 965.8 hiked 17.1 miles today.
July 18 — day 78
Camped mile 948.7 hiked 10.5 miles today.
It was an easy walk into Tuolumne. First stop was the general store/post office/restaurant. I had breakfast got some resupply consisting mainly of King sized Payday bars and had a mid morning snack of a pint of coffee ice cream. The trail family is breaking up as some will walk down to the valley and others lacking the necessary permit will hitchhike into the valley. It was a hot day and I took many breaks along the Tuolumne River before camping above Conness Creek.
July 17 — day 77
Camped mile 938.2 hiked 17.1 miles today.
It was a great day crossing over Donahue Pass the gateway to Yosemite. We descended down meadows along the Lyell fork of the Tuolumne River. The water was crystal clear. We enjoyed an afternoon break watching the trout, skinny dipping etc. I decided to camp outside of the four-mile limit from Tuolumne rather than the public campsite in Tuolumne. Unfortunately my campsite was a mosquito heaven.
July 16 — day 76
Camped mile 923.1 hiked 15.1 miles today.
I was up early for breakfast at the RM restaurant. It was passable and a bit expensive but worth it. It was a hard day for many. I camped well above Thousand Islands Lake. Had a spectacular view of the moonrise.
July 15 — day 75
Zero PCT miles today.
Camped off-trail at Red’s Meadows. It was a busy morning. Took the 1:00 bus to Mammoth. We gathered into a huge group and ate at the Loco Frijol. I had a huge bowl of red Pozole. We took a shuttle to the Main Lodge and from there yet another shuttle to Red’s Meadows. We met Medicine Man there. Camped at the group campsite for thruhikers.