5pm: On the trail 18 miles in for the day so far.
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Doug’s photos
Days 103-112
August 10 day 103 stayed in Ashland hostel for a second night zero miles today.
This was a great zero day. Went shopping for breakfast with Lalabi and we made a huge breakfast together. Later I met several thru hikers and the trail angel Aloha at the all you can eat Indian place in town. Later in the evening I saw the Shakespeare play Cymbeline.
August 11 day 104 camped mile 1736.3 hiked 9.8 miles today.
It was sad to be leaving Ashland, the hostel and all the groovy people there. I got up early to catch up on writing and to eat. I was the first in the kitchen and made myself fried eggs, sausage, toasted English muffins, coffee and kefir. I said my goodbyes, then posted a package and bought fresh food for the next day and a half at the fantastic co-op. Had the opportunity to be a trail angel to Chris who I had last seen in Tehachapi I think. He didn’t stop in Ashland so was appreciative of the avocado. Later that day I walked by Pilot Rock which has a Peregrine Falcon nesting site. That evening I listened to and saw a number of raptors it was fantastic. That evening I had an amazing view of a meteor shower from my camping spot on in an open meadow.
August 12 day 105 camped mile 1749 hiked 16.7 miles today.
It was another special day for me. I picked up several raptor feathers on my way to a spring. I spend a while in the area and hear a pair of ravens and look that way and then see a peregrine falcon. I positively identified the falcon by the calls thanks to an audio clip I had downloaded. I camped in an unremarkable spot with a good sky view.
August 13 day 106 camped mile 1758.4 hiked 10.3 miles today.
I got out to the Campers Cove store well before I was to meet my buddy Doug. The hiker box was excellent as someone had called into the store and said that they were not going to make it there and asked the store to dump their resupply box into the hiker box. There was lots of good stuff. After Doug got there we divide up food for the next week and parked the car at the BLM campground and headed north. Went for a swim in Howard Prairie Lake and camped not too far beyond. We had great dinners as Doug had done an excellent job picking out food. A little heavy but good.
August 14 day 107 camped mile 1774.2 hiked 15.8 miles today.
It was my first full day with Doug. Later on this very warm day we stopped by the South Brown Mountain Shelter a small cabin open to hikers. We met Mary Poppins another thruhiker who cooked his lunch over a wood fire all the while holding his black umbrella. Impressive. The campsites are pretty few and far between in the area we decide to camp. I chose a nice leafy spot unfortunately I didn’t realize that it was so popular with the ants. It will be my last night cowboy camping for a while.
August 15 day 108 camped mile 1789.1 Summit Lake hiked 14.9 miles today.
Today was a great day. We continued hiking thru the volcanic debris fields which were thankfully well graded on trail. We got some good photos to prove it. Eventually we cross highway 140 where we have the odd experience of meeting a guy with a revolver in a belt holster slung over his shoulder. We had been talking to his wife and son before he showed up. We climbed up to a poorly marked trail junction and go to Freye lake for lunch, a wash up and a nap. It was a perfect stop. Back on the trail we eventually catch the odor and later sight of huckleberries. The understory is in places entirely huckleberried. We pick eat and walk. We camp at Summit lake whose surrounding shores abound in berries and mosquitoes. Doug DEET’s up and I cover up under the barrage.
August 16 day 109 camped mile 1803.8 Upper Snow Lake hiked 14.7 miles today.
It was another great day. We stop for some good water at Christi’s spring. While we are there another thruhiker Moonshadow shows up. I had last seen her in Etna. We all end up hiking together for the rest of the day. It is a particularly excellent day as we have great views. It is surprising that there is a lake so close to the ridge. We have an excellent campsite on the shore of Upper Snow Lake. We have a few other thruhikers passing thru our camp to get water.
August 17 day 110 camped mile 1823.3 hiked 21.5 miles today.
Doug and I had an adventure today. Moonshadow takes off early in the morning as she is a little behind schedule. We say goodbye to her (we think for good). The trail continues along a ridge with good views. A little later we cross a number of small creeks and springs. We see an amazing number of small frogs in several sections is trail. We get some water at the last “reliable” water source. Jack Rabbit Spring turns out to be totally dry. We hoped to pick up water here and camp nearby. Doug’s feet look like hell and we have pictures to prove it. We end up hiking much more than we wanted to today as we had run so low on water. We walk into late twilight and camp.
August 18 day 111 camped mile 1834.8 Crater Lake hiked 11.5 miles today.
It is a short hike to Mazama Village. We are surprised and delighted to see Moonshadow along with a bunch of other thruhikers. I attempt an enormous chicken fried steak breakfast. We have fun chit-chatting with the other hikers and both take showers. Moonshadow decides to hike with us. We have a fantastic afternoon on the rim of Crater Lake. We lounge on the deck of the Lodge enjoying cold beers and spectacular views of the lake on a perfect day. We pick up sandwiches for dinner at the cafe. We find a campsite between the trail and the rim. The sunset is gorgeous. That evening we see a huge mountain lion stalking around our camp. We pitch our tents close together.
August 19 day 112 stayed at Shelley’s place in Portland off trail at 1840.6 hiked 5.8 miles today.
My last day on the trail for a long while. It is an incredibly beautiful morning. Although we only need to travel a few miles to meet Keri at noon by mid morning we realize that we need to hurry up in order to meet her on time. We are stopping for pictures every few minutes. The trail angel Aloha is at our meeting point before Keri which means that we get to enjoy the last trail angel for a while. The rest of the day is spent driving to Doug’s car and then on to Ashland before heading up to Portland where we spend the night at a friend’s place.
Crater Lake, Oregon
Photos
Days 89-102
July 27 day 89 camped in the city of Mount Shasta zero miles today.
A bit too busy for a zero day but what the hell. Spent the morning trying to hitch to Shasta. I eventually get a ride in a taxi of sorts for a “donation” of $7. Had a fantastic breakfast of eggs, hash browns, bacon, sausage, ham, and pancakes at the Black Bear Diner. The rest of the day was great. I met Stormy at the laundromat and found that thru hikers could camp behind the sports store. There were a few PCT folks already there. Had a nice evening which included dinner at the Black Bear.
July 28 day 90 camped mile 1519.3 hiked 12.8 miles today.
It was Sunday so all the stores opened late. Went to the local supermarket for some supplies and a roasted chicken and kefir for breakfast. After eating and packing up I went to the CoOp for some dried fruit and more kefir. The hitch to the trail ends up pretty easy as a local picks me up. As I am hiking thru Castle Crags SP I realize that I still have coins in my pocket so I decide to create a little treasure trove for some kid. I find a little knot hole in a log to put the coins in and find a golden dollar piece almost completely hidden in the same spot. I pick it up and leave my coins. The next day I will find yet another dollar coin in another great hiding spot. Strange.
July 29 day 91 camped mile 1546 hiked 26.7 miles today.
I am dragging a bit today as my foot is still hurting me.
July 30 day 92 camped mile 1570.3 hiked 24.3 miles today.
Another day struggling to make the miles.
July 31 day 93 camped mile 1592.6 hiked 22.3 miles today.
It was another sluggish day for me. The arch of my right foot has been bothering me since before Shasta. The zero day there was not enough of a rest apparently. The otherwise lovely country that the trail goes through is marred by free range cattle. They ruin the springs and meadows. As there are no fences they are also in wilderness areas. This is ridiculous.
August 1 day 94 stayed mile 1606.4 at the Hikers Hut in Etna hiked 15.8 miles today.
Hiked thru some of the nicest country that I have seen in a while. The trail follows a rugged ridge line with sweeping though smokey views all around. There is another new fire developing off to the West. Lots of smoke in the valleys. Get to Etna Summit and find a forest service truck stopping all traffic heading west towards the fire. Eventually get a ride into lovely Etna. Head over to Bob’s Ranch House restaurant for the first of many delicious meals. Back at the Hikers Hut we watch The 5th Element. This will be watched at least 5 times while I am here. I tell the story of my finding two dollar coins and get my new trail name Magic Mike.
August 2 day 95 camped Hiker Hut Etna zero miles today.
A great lazy day filled with eating and hanging out with fellow thru hikers.
August 3 day 96 camped at the Hiker Hut Etna zero miles today.
Another great day of eating and hanging out.
August 4 day 97 camped mile 1621.7 hiked 15.3 miles today.
I was up early for yet another breakfast at Bob’s. I get everything packed up and get a ride up to the trailhead with some trail angels. I start walking with Lalabi, Chosen One and Hooligan. It is super smokey on the trail. Many people skipped this section on account of the fire, but as the forest service hasn’t closed the trail we figure that we are good. I camp with Lakabi and Chosen One.
August 5 day 98 camped mile 1647.6 hiked 25.9 miles today.
There is less smoke as the day progresses. Lalabi and I meet Hooligan at 10:00. He is annoyed that we put in 10 miles before he even got going for the day. It is quite beautiful as the trail traverses high in the Marble Mountains. The smoke can’t hide the beauty. Overall it was a great day walking. End up camping with Lalabi and Chosen One.
August 6 day 99 camped mile 1662.1 Mid River RV Park in Seiad Valley hiked 14.5 miles today.
Got moving before Chosen One and Lalabi. It was a nice walk down the river valley. The last part into town was a road walk. Just before I start this I run into Hooligan and Chosen One and we all do the five mile road walk into Seiad Valley. The town consists of a restaurant/general store/post office and a run down RV park. The food was good and the locals very friendly.
August 7 day 100 camped mile 1682.8 Bear Dog Spring hiked 20.7 miles today.
After a big breakfast at the Seiad Cafe I started the 4500 foot ascent back into the mountains. The mountains are not quite as spectacular as the Marbles before Seiad Valley. Ended up camping with Lalabi.
August 8 day 101 camped mile 1710.1 hiked 23.3 miles today.
Was hiking off and on with Lalabi today. Made it to the CA/OR border. This is a huge milestone in the trip for me. At one time I thought that CA alone would be my PCT trip so that I could do that and Burning Man in the same year. I will go to BM this year and finish the PCT if the weather cooperates in the fall in Washington.
August 9 day 102 off trail at mile 1726.1 Calahan’s stayed in the Ashland Hostel hiked 16 miles today.
It was an easy day. Made it to Calahan’s in time for a free beer and a great burger. Met a few other thru hikers: Lt Dan, Chosen One etc. I hadn’t even put my thumb out for a ride when I got picked up by Legend yet another thru hiker. He dropped me off at the Ashland Hostel. I got cleaned up and went out to dinner with Lalabi who was also staying at the Hostel. Had my first non-burger town meal in a while and had Spanish grilled peppers and a falafel plate. The dinners were a bit lite for the both of us.
Email August 7th
I am leaving Seiad Valley this morning. I’ll be in Ashland in about 3 days.
Days 75-88
July 13 day 75 camped mile 1218.4 hiked 22.4 miles today. Left Sierra City late in the morning after a nice huge and well cooked breakfast. I am now sporting a 7.5 pound base weight pack! It was a noticeably easier climb up the Sierra Buttes.
July 14 day 76 camped mile 1243.8 hiked 25.4 miles today.
July 15 day 77 stayed Buck Lake PCT mile 1265.7 hiked 26.3 miles today. I was so excited about getting into civilization today. I had picked up for free food for the last section. It ended up being super sugar heavy and very unsatisfying. In Bucks Lake I ate two dinners in close succession. The first a delicious burger with a touch of chorizo and the second fish and chips. I waddled off after and found a nice lakeside camping spot.
July 16 day 78 camped mile 1283 hiked 16.5 miles today. Road walked to Bucks Summit and then got a ride to Quincy. Bought too much food at Safeway in town as I mistakenly shopped before eating breakfast. After doing my laundry I walked back to the edge of town and hitched back. It took three rides to make it. It’s always tough going after a resupply. Had a great campsite for the eve.
July 17 day 79 camped mile 1297 hiked 14 miles today. It was a long descent to Belden in the Feather River canyon. At the Belden town resort I had bacon and eggs soon followed by a double burger and fries. Quite a few thru hikers were accumulating during the heat of the day. I left at 4:00 to start a long hot ascent thru burnt forest.
July 18 day 80 camped mile 1319.2 hiked 22.2 miles today. Helicopters in the morning I found out latter were because Muck Muck called in as she had been stalked by a mountain lion for hours the previous evening. She had a Spot satellite transmitter and sent out a distress signal. Latter that day I saw the lovely site of a doe and her two tiny fawns crossing the trail ahead of and unaware of me.
July 19 day 81 camped mile 1345.4 hiked 26.2 miles today. Descended down to Highway 36 and immediately got a ride into Chester with Pipers mom. It was another eating frenzy. The hitch out of town was not bad and had some trail magic in the form of cold sodas and water at the trailhead. I camped just past the N fork of the Feather river. Had a nice bath there before I set up camp.
July 20 day 82 camped mile 1368.5 hiked 23.1 miles today. First really interesting stop was the Terminal Geyser which is actually a fumarole. I was there alone so stopped at the Drakesbad Guest Ranch and ran into Drop Bizkit and a couple of other thru hikers. I hadn’t seen her since the Anderson’s. The hikers I am most interested in are the ones I met early on. They are my crew.
July 21 day 83 camped mile 1397.9 Cache 22 hiked 32.4 miles today. It was an epic day. Walked out of Lassen and eventually into Old Station. It was a scorching hot day. Tanked up on food and water before pushing on to the Subway Caves where I waited out the heat of the day with Drop Bizkit. I hiked with her along the notorious Hat Creek Rim into the night to Cache 22 a water catch about half way through a 30 mile waterless section. When we got there there was water yes but also beer and chips and cookies. I felt great drinking a Sierra Nevada Torpedo after such a long day. We got to bed in the dust before midnight.
July 22 day 84 camped mile 1423.6 Burney Falls Memorial State Park hiked 25.7 miles today. Got up early and finished the Hat Creek Rim. Almost the first water that we got to was a water project i.e. loads of water. It was a strange contrast. The terrain was easy as first we passed highway 299 and then came to a totally unexpected and fantastic cache with ice cold sodas water tootsie rolls etc. The final miles into Burney Falls were difficult. I hung out at the store with other hikers charging phones and of course eating. Camped at the hiker/biker site at the SP not so far from the store.
July 23 day 85 camped mile 1429.3 hiked about 17 miles today. Got up early in order to hitch into the town of Burney. I hitched from the front of the SP for an hour and a half before starting to walk. I finally got a ride into Burney from a section hiker after about three miles. Had a giant and fantastic breakfast at the Blackberry Diner and then picked up food for the next 80 miles. I ended up walking most of the 11 miles back from town. To top if off just outside the park a dog decided to try to attack me. In quickly reaching down to pick up a rock I later found out that I had ripped my pack. I latter reported the dog to the law enforcement ranger at Burney. He said that the dog was a known problem but was outside his jurisdiction. The store topped the cake by telling me that the hiker box was thrown away because the food was old however the majority I had put in yesterday as a gift from SciFi and Campfire. Back on the trail I had a great bath in Rock Creek just before I camped.
July 24 day 86 camped mile 1453.5 hiked 24.2 miles today. I didn’t sleep so well last night as it was so hot a humid. Spent the day passing and being passed by a group of thruhikers; Spark, Inspire, Carrot Quinn, Scrub, SciFi and Campfire. Found a great open space to camp for the night as a parade of other hikers passed and complemented me on the spot. It was a little early to stop but I was tired. I should have set up a tent. There were plenty of mosquitoes in the evening.
July 25 day 87 camped mile 1478.8 hiked 25.3 miles today. I am eating my food at a rate that I will run out tomorrow early. It’s funny how my appetite can change from section to section. I end up camping on a pullout on a dirt road because it is a break in the forest so I am hoping for a at least a breath of air. Again it’s so hot that I go to bed only in long underwear no sleeping bag.
July 26 day 88 camped mile 1506.5 Castle Crags State Park hiked about 31 miles today. I was pretty low on food today so I had to make it out to civilization. The highlights of the day were a tiny little frog in a little pool that I was getting water from and a few crashes in the forest and the glimpse of the ass of a big black bear. The civilization that I got to was Ammarati’s in Castilla. They had great sandwiches. It was the end of a very long day as I got into the PCT camp.
SMS July 26th
I’ll be in Shasta tonight.
SMS Friday morning
10 miles from Hwy 36 the gateway to Chester.




















