Days 44 – 49

June 19 — day 49
Zero PCT + 3 road miles today. Feeling way better than yesterday but still way off my normal self. Had breakfast at The General Store’s grill. Walked most of the way under the blazing sun to Grumpy Bear’s with Virgin. Luckily I had found a parasol in the hiker box so it wasn’t too oppressive. Got my resupply at the adjacent Triple Crown Outfitters run by Yogi of PCT Guidebook fame and her husband. Did a bucket laundry at GB and had a wonderful burger and fries for lunch which I couldn’t quite finish, which highlighted the fact that I’m not feeling 100% more like 70% myself. I hung out with Virgin, Sam, Safari, and French Ninja eating and drinking cold soft drinks. Of course everyone else was having beer but that would have wiped me out even more. It only took me a couple of minutes to get a ride back to TKMGS from one of the guys working there returning from a recycling run. I had picked up a stove, fuel, cooking pot, so that I could make myself some top ramen.

June 18 — day 48
Camped off-trail at the Kennedy Meadows General Store mile 702.2 hiked 17 miles today. It was a short but for me exhausting morning climb and then thankfully a long gentle descent to water at Chimney Creek where I found Virgin, La La, Next Level, and Huckleberry breaking camp. It really was a struggle to make the last miles into Kennedy Meadows. I have rarely in my life felt this wiped out.

June 17 — day 47
Camped mile 685.2 hiked 13.7 miles today. Another day of struggling to make some miles between water sources. My diet of nuts, seeds, and dried fruits is just not cutting it for me. Most everything is unpalatable to me now. I camped shy of where I was planning on going due to a forming thunderstorm and lack of good protected campsites ahead. I practically collapsed into my tent after setting it up. I was forcing myself to eat out of my abundant food supplies.

June 16 — day 46
Camped mile 672.5 hiked 17.8 miles today. I was slightly damp this morning. The beginning of the day was lovely with great views into the Owens Valley. It was hard with my huge pack.

June 15 — day 45
Camped mile 654.6 hiked 3.3 miles today. Enjoyed a solo early morning soak in the upper pool. Had a lovely day hanging out with Scott, Olena and Sofie. We did some cold water soaks later in the day in the lower pools which were feet under the raging flood stage Lower Kern River. Scott dropped me off back at the Walker Pass BLM campground where there was a hiker party in progress. I had added all the extra equipment that I would need for the Sierra (bear canister, ice axe, microspikes, extra tee shirt, hat, and swapped out a long sleeved shirt and warmer long underwear bottoms) and left a few things with Scott. My base weight went from 10 to 15 pounds. I was carrying around 8 pounds of food and about 10 pounds of water. This is not ultralight backpacking. It was hard and hot and heavy climbing out of Walker Pass. Found a lovely campsite on a saddle three miles in. It was so beautiful I was able to cowboy camp with a view looking into the Owens Valley.

June 14 — day 44
Camped off trail mile 651.3 Remington Hot Springs hiked 13.4 miles today. I finished up my food today so the pack was light except for water. Made it to Walker Pass about 1:00. It took me a good hour hitching before I got a ride to Lake Isabella town where I got dropped off at the Pizza Factory. There was a special on a medium pizza. It was a struggle finishing. I got picked up by Scott, Olena, and her daughter Sofie who I had yet to meet. We went to Nelda’s for dinner. I was pretty full so went for a malt. I was slightly embarrassed to be having dessert-for-dinner in front if Sofie because she had to eat “real food” before dessert. Got in late to the parking lot/campground of Remington Hot Springs. Only the upper pool was usable as the lower ones were under the high flood stage water.

Days 36 – 43

June 13 — Day 43 
Camped mile 637.4 hiked 17.5 miles today. Another brutally hot day. I made it to the water catch at Bird Spring Pass. Luckily there was water there. I topped up my 7 liters and started climbing up the S face. Didn’t make it far before I had to have my Siesta. The wind was up by the time I got to the ridge. I was able to find a semisheltered spot for cowboy camping.

June 12 — Day 42
Camped mile 619.8 hiked 17.7 miles today. Picked about 7 liters of water for the next dry section at Landers Meadows Springs. Met up with Papa Bear and a ton of thruhikers at the adjacent campsite. I dropped off some garbage and a giant knife that I had found on the trail. So far on the trail I’ve found two hats, a pair of gloves, two sheath knives and the pepperoni. I hiked until 7:00 and was completely exhausted.

June 11 — Day 41
Camped mile 602.1 Robin Bird Springs hiked 16.3 miles today. It was a super hot day. I was really dragging. I ran out of water before the spring so I was really worn out when I arrived. Hang Time mentioned that he didn’t have enough food to Kennedy Meadows so I gave him the huge pepperoni that I picked up this morning. I thought that I had plenty of food.

June 10 — Day 40 
Camped mile 585.8 hiked 19.3 miles today. It was hot climbing out of Tehachapi. This section has very few natural water sources. There are a few road crossings where there are water catches. The hike today was to the first source at Golden Oak Spring. I camped a few miles beyond. As I was looking for the campsite I found a huge 2+ lb pepperoni completely intact. I assume that someone accidentally left if. I think that they must have been sad, because it was a lot of food.

June 9 — Day 39 
Zero PCT miles today. Had a huge chicken fried steak breakfast. Got talking to Clifford the Big Red who was a desert rat with loads of stories of mines, animal encounters, etc.

June 8 — Day 38 
Camped off-trail at Aviation Park Tehachapi off mile 558.5 hiked 17 PCT + 4 Tehachapi = 21 miles today. Got passed by 7 dirt bikes on the trail today. Called the Kern County Sheriff to report it. This is the section most scarred by offroad motorcycles. It’s pretty ugly. Got out to Willow Creek Rd and hitched to Aviation Park at the airport in Tehachapi. It was strange but a nice large lawn area for tenting underneath mature Fremont Cottonwoods. Had an excellent double entree at Thai-Hachapi. Trekked out to the Vons for a resupply.

June 7 — Day 37 
Camped mile 541.5 hiked 24 miles today. Started before sunrise to avoid the heat, but it never really got too hot as it was windy all day. This is the famous aqueduct section across the Mojave.

June 6 — Day 36 
Zero miles today. Continued staying at City Hall in Hikertown. I’m giving my knee another rest day. Spent the day eating and relaxing.


Days 31 – 35

poppies just before Hikertown

June 5 — day 35
Camped off trail mile 517.6 hiked 11.6 miles today. It was a lovely morning with the heat coming on as I descended towards the upper Mojave. It was surprising to see loads of poppies still blooming in the low foothills. Got to Hikertown one of the strangest around noon. Fairly soon after I got a ride to Neenach Cafe and Market. Got a burger and onion rings for lunch and picked up some resupply.

June 4 — day 34
Camped mile 506.1 hiked 17.2 miles today. It was a really hot day today. Had to stop a few times just to cool off. My knee has been hurting since the Cajon pass. It’s very stiff after a short rest. I cowboy camped in a lovely area of rolling hilltops and of mixed oaks and short grass. It was breezy all evening.

June 3 — day 33
Camped mile 488.9 hiked 11.7 Miles today. I was up early but stayed until my phone was fully charged. Of course I had my fill of coffee and pancakes. It was super hot today.

changing from Brooks in background to Altra Lone Peak 4

June 2 — day 32
Zero miles today. Had a relaxing day at Casa de Luna. Had a plate of pancakes and coffee for breakfast provided by the house. Did my resupply at the small local market. It’s always a challenge to find a few days worth of food at a convenience store. Sandwiches are my new go to.

June 1 — day 31
Camped off trail mile 478.2 Casa de Luna hiked 23.3 miles today. Got off early and stopped by Homemade Cafe for a chicken fried steak breakfast. I wanted huevos rancheros but figured that my choice would have higher calories. It was a cool foggy morning perfect for hiking. Got into Casa de Luna in time for the taco salad dinner. This place is as wild as any super angel establishment. It’s very funky with a manzanita forest in the huge backyard with hundreds of handpainted stones all over the place.

Days 24 – 30

May 31 — Day 30 
Zero miles today stayed at Hiker Heaven. I tried to eat as much as possible today. I was able to find a replacement pair of shoes Altra Lone Peak 4 in size 8.5. I again repaired my Brooks GTS19’s with Shoe Goo in the toe rand area for extra reinforcement. I don’t trust them now so I’ll carry the two pair until I can decide which is better.

cowboy camping

May 30 — Day 29 
Camped at Hiker Heaven off mile 454.5 hiked 10.2 miles today. Another lovely day walking over the hills into Vasquez Rocks which has served as a backdrop for many Hollywood productions including Star Trek’s fight between Kirk and the Gorn. The trail goes right through the middle of Agua Dulce. A little over a mile off trail is the nicest hikers stop along the way Hiker Heaven. Got everything done within a few hours of arriving; shower, haircut, devices charged, and a resupply shopping trip with Pacer, Goat and Endless. We had some Thai food for lunch while out shopping.

May 29 — Day 28 
Camped mile 444.3 & Acton KOA hiked 13.8 miles today. It was a gorgeous and dry morning. Got off early and cruised down to Soledad Canyon. I had a wonderful day at the KOA hanging out with other hikers I had met. Along with Pacer, Goat, and Endless ordered 3 extra large pizzas from The Pizza Place in Acton. Our eyes we bigger than our bellies by one whole pie. The extra did not go to waste as there were other hungry hikers. My shoes are totally worn and beginning to split out in the toe area. I repaired them with the shoe goo that I got in Wrightwood.

Baden Powell rime ice on the trees

May 28 — Day 27 
Camped mile 430.5 hiked 23.2 miles today. My airy perch and extra low tent was soaked after the frost melted. Walked through some really lovely dry forest mostly Jeffery Pine, Incense Cedar, and some type of clumping scrub oak. Finally the poodle dog bush detour has been eliminated as has the majority of this noxious plant. Got a great spot for cowboy camping with a wonderful view looking North.

my snow squished tent

May 27 — Day 26 
Camped mile 406.8 hiked 17.6 Miles today. It snowed last night and my tent pole was frighteningly bowed under the weight of the heavy snow covering the tent. I packed up pretty quickly in the morning. My tent was about three times it’s normal size with authentic snow and ice covering it. It was gorgeous walking through fresh snow. Ended up walking most of the day with thruhiker Virgin. Had an early lunch break in a nice sunny spot and I laid out all my things to dry. I camped alone just above the Sulfur Springs campground.

campsite day 25

May 26 — Day 25 
Camped mile 389.2 hiked 17.8 miles today. Rained last night through the morning. The PCT climbs most of the way up Mt Baden Powell. It was steep with lots of last winters snow remaining. It was challenging route finding. The trees up high were covered in rime ice from last nights snow storm. It was beautiful but cold with fresh snow falling and being driven by the wind. Walked further than I wanted in order to find a sheltered spot to set up the tent.

May 25 — Day 24 
Camped mile 371.4 hiked 17.5 miles today. Hiked up to the Angeles Crest Hwy at Inspiration Point. Asked Cowboy John for a ride into Wrightwood. He gave me a short tour of town before dropping me off at Mountain Hardware who provide pack storage, a charging station and a whole hardware/general store for all the thruhikers needs. Just next door is Jensen’s a full service grocery. Before I food shopped I had a pound burger and two beers at The Yodeler. I packed up and hitched out of town back to the trail. Only did a few more miles before finding a nice spot near the trail to camp.

Days 19 – 23

May 24 — Day 23
Camped mile 353.9 hiked 18.2 miles today. I was up early and packed up a dew wet tent and damp sleeping bag. Went to the McDonalds in the Cajon Pass for charging devices and some really crappy food. Climbing out of the pass wasn’t too difficult. I think that I was energized by the coffee that I had. Got a wonderful campsite with some wind protection and great views.

May 23 — Day 22
Camped mile 335.7 hiked 22.4 miles today. I’m not in love with this section of the trail, but at least the weather was cool to cold. I enjoyed watching some California quail while I was talking to Hillary on the phone. Again I managed to get a slightly protected spot to put my spindly ultralight tent.

May 22 — Day 21
Camped mile 313.3 hiked 21.3 miles today. It was a lovely day descending thru Deep Creek. Stopped by the hot springs for a soak. Continued down to where the canyon opens up and found a nice beach to camp on. Had another wet night.

May 21 — Day 20
Camped mile 291.9 hiked 25.8 miles today. Left the hostel at 7:00 am with a full load of hikers to be dropped off at the trailhead. Another cool and blustery day perfect for walking. Descended enough to avoid most of the wind to a campsite well above the Deep Creek.

May 20 — Day 19
Zero PCT miles today. I woke to a winter wonderland outside the hostel. Spent the day eating, shopping for resupply and relaxing. The snow was gone by the late afternoon.

Days 17 – 18

May 19 — Day 18
Off trail mile 266.1 to Big Bear Hostel
Hiked 16.9 miles today. It was a cold night with light snow at dawn. The snow started to accumulate as I was packing up. It was a cold walk in the storm. I met 3 other thruhikers rushing to get to Big Bear “as quickly as possible.” I wouldn’t mind that either. The last part of the trail before getting off at highway 18 was representing Great Basin spring colors. I was running low on battery power again and was saving what was left for a phone call to Papa Smurf (trail angel) or the Hostel. At the trailhead the was a trail angel waiting for me with hot coffee and cookies. The three I had  seen were in the passenger seats of the trail angel’s station wagon. He was a local and a temporarily off trail thruhiker. He drove us to the Hostel. I was very thankful that it was so easy to get into town. Got myself and clothes cleaned and electronics fully charged for once. There are loads of thruhikers here, in fact, I think the only people staying at the Hostel now and it’s full.

May 18 — Day 17
Camped mile 249.2 hiked 16.9 miles today. More climbing along the upper stretches of Mission Creek. Higher still got some nice views looking out towards San Jacinto and closer San Gorgonio. I hadn’t seen these views before due to weather. It’s impressive looking back on where I had come from. Camped pretty early in the day and got into my sleeping bag as it was really getting cold.

Days 12 – 16

Day 12, looking down into Coachella Valley

May 17 — Day 16
Camped mile 232.3 hiked 13.4 miles today.  It was a hard day today. The trail was washed out for large sections of the Mission Creek part of the day.

May 16 — Day 15
Camped mile 218.9 hiked 11.6 miles today. I woke up quite sandy. The wind had subsided a bit by was still blowing like hell. Walked the 3 miles to the 10 junction and got a Lyft to the Starbucks in Cabazon to wait for Scott and Cheryl bringing my resupply and going out for a double lunch (at least for me). Joel and Craig also stopped at the Thai/Japanese restaurant after we had finished the first. I got back on the trail and it was still blowing like crazy. I walked the 8 more miles into the Whitewater river valley where the wind had subsided as it turns out temporarily. Had a wash up in the river. The night was again extremely windy. I chose a lovely little spot under a desert willow and an indigo bush in bloom to lay my bag. No way would my tent survive the wind, enjoyed a beautiful evening under alternating stars, full moon, and spits of rain.

May 15 — Day 14
Camped mile 207.3 hiked 16 miles today. It was a gorgeous morning with a crimson eastern sky. The views were stunning descending towards the pass. I’d heard that there was an In-n-Out Burger in Cabazon and that I could get a Lyft from the Snow Creek paved road. An admittedly expensive burger (including the ride) but well worth it. I was also able to charge my phone at Starbucks. I got another Lyft back to the trail and found an uncomfortable little gully that offered a little protection from the howling wind. It was an uncomfortable sandy night of cowboy camping.

May 14 — Day 13
Camped mile 191.3 hiked 10.7 PCT + 9 summiting = 19.7 miles. The weather was perfect for ascending Mount San Jacinto. The view from the summit was unbelievable. Continued on the PCT descending below the trailhead for Fuller Ridge to a marginal campsite but out of the wind.

May 13 — Day 12
Camped mile 180.6 hiked 6.1 PCT + 5 to Idyllwild = 11.1 miles today. Woke very early walked across first snow. Got lovely tasty water (of course filtered) by hanging the bladders and letting gravity do the work. I still need to refine my system. Hitched into Idyllwild with the librarian. Had a huge breakfast at Red Kettle with Improv. Spent a couple of hours at the library charging. Got a fantastic campsite.

Days 6-11

May 12 — Day 11 
Camped mile 174.5 hiked 16.2 PCT + 2  Apache Springs = 18.2 miles. Hot and hard day. Lots of climbing. Traveled thru lots of burned out forest from the Mountain Fire. The PCT through this section just opened up this year. It was sad to see so much deviation since my 2013 walk when this area was pristine.

My campsite, day 10

May 11 — Day 10 
Camped mile 158.3 hiked 18.1 PCT + 2 off PCT = 21.1 miles today. Cool morning. Saw Mary of Mary’s place at mile 145 on her horse. Had lunch with my niece Noel and my brother-in-law Rod who had drove up to the Paradise Valley Cafe to meet me. It was nice to see some clean people. They drove me out to Idyllwild to pick up supplies till Cabazon.

Trail Angel Mary’s place

May 10 — Day 9
Camped mile 140.2 hiked 15.3 miles today. Took a while to pack up after a wet night. It was only a couple of miles to Mike’s place. Mike opens his property to thruhikers and provides an important water source for this section of the trail. Continued to a campsite I used in 2013.

May 9 — Day 8 
Camped mile 124.9 hiked 14 miles today.

Eagle Rock

May 8 — Day 7 
Camped mile 110.9 hiked 8.8 miles today. Passed through the verdant rangeland around Warner Springs. The last few miles into Warner Springs proper were along the babbling brook in Cañada Verde. This short section of the PCT from S2 West of Ranchita to 79 at Warner Springs is one of the loveliest easy sections of the trail. Warner Springs hosts PCT hikers in the Community Center. The town goes all out. I charged my devices, resupplied food, bucket washed myself and clothes which was a great treat. Went to the Golf Club restaurant and met many thru-hikers including Klaus, Pick-of-the-Litter, Max, Kevin, etc. Burger and beer for me. Camped a very short distance away.

May 7 — Day 6 
Camped mile 102.1 hiked 22.7 miles. The San Felipe Hills were green and unseasonably cool this time. Met Klaus and Dizzy Eyes at the 3rd gate water cache. Camped just beyond Barrel Springs. I love the section from Barrel to Warner Springs. It’s ranch country.